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Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Re: [stymingersfink] best biner for grigri lead solo?:
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healyje
Dec 13, 2006, 6:06 PM
Views: 8291
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
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stymingersfink wrote: healyje wrote: lambone wrote: You should use back up knots dude. Roped soloing probably constitutes 40-50% of all the climbing I do and I climb a lot. I've done it on every conceivable system and technique imaginable. I know exactly what I'm doing and know just what tradeoffs I'm making when I say I don't use backup knots when free roped soloing. I do use backup knots when aid soloing, but not when free climbing. Having climbed solo for as long and as frequently as you state, I would imagine you have enough experience to determine when you are going to choose to work without a backup. I find it hard to believe that you would pass on such an endorsement to someone who may or may not be able to make such a judgement call, especially when you go on to state that when AIDING you b/u, but not when FREEclimbing (this was in the AID forum afterall). Healyj generally has good information to share on the boards, but in this case I think he was off base. Except his disclaimer, which was right on.
Stym, Which part of that disclaimer did you miss? I did not "endorse" that anyone do anything, I specifically didn't "endorse" anyone not use backup knots. Anyone 'who may or may not be able to make such a judgement call' should not be roped soloing, period. In that regard, roped soloing - like free soloing - is the essence of Darwin at work and I would very much hope it will always remain so.
My imperative when I free roped solo is moving fast. I do pitches in about 2/3's the time of a roped pair. I only do multi-pitch routes and regularly do them in 5.9-.10 range. Most are routes I'm familiar with, but when I travel it's almost always onsight with no idea of the grade.
Now you have a gripe in this being the Aid forum which I clearly missed, but I did very clearly state I operate differently in each realm. Again, anyone not capable of sorting through all the options shouldn't be roped soloing, aid or free.
(This post was edited by healyje on Dec 13, 2006, 6:07 PM)
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Post edited by healyje
() on Dec 13, 2006, 6:07 PM
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