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Re: [jt512] What should I buy? Cam or hexes/tricams:
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musicman1586
Dec 19, 2006, 8:46 PM
Views: 2968
Registered: Oct 26, 2005
Posts: 488
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jt512 wrote: scrapedape wrote: jt512 wrote: I do not know a single experienced (and by experience I mean skillful) climber who carries hexes on his trad rack. Well, you also don't live near Seneca Rocks. There are places at Seneca where the right hex will provide vastly better protection than any cam. It's nice to have them on hand for those situations. Additionally, they're good to have for building gear anchors on ledges, where the fussing around is not such an issue. If I had no rack and was faced with the choice between spending 60 bucks on one cam or 4 hexes, I would buy the hexes. But then again, I mainly climb at Seneca. I've never climbed at Seneca, but I've climbed a bunch of other places, and really can't imagine a route on which I'd prefer to have hexes over cams. Do people climbing mid-5.10 and harder routes at Seneca really prefer to place hexes over cams (and I'm not counting the old-school hardmen who have been placing hexes for 30 years)? Even if the placements were technically better for hexes, I would think that that would be trumped by the relative ease of placing cams. On a strenuous route, you don't want to have to fiddle around finessing a hex into place when you could "just slam in" a cam. Jay
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/ishmael/index.html
Can't find the Rock and Ice article about it, but in that article Pat said that the key to protecting the crux was a small hex, so how's that for top level climbing? Lots of people still do use hexes, even those that are climbing hard, and just because you have a personal preference against them doesn't mean that they are obsolete,
(This post was edited by musicman1586 on Dec 19, 2006, 8:48 PM)
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Post edited by musicman1586
() on Dec 19, 2006, 8:48 PM
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