|
|
Forums:
Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
Re: [devils_advocate] Big Walls without aid.:
Edit Log
|
|
flamer
Jan 5, 2007, 12:56 AM
Views: 992
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
devils_advocate wrote: flamer wrote: i was going to suggest resolution as well....the 'aid' is super cruiser...2 moves on .75 camalots and done...no aiders needed. Forgive my lack of aid knowledge - but this is the Trad forum so I'm going to ask. If you can fit a .75 into that crack why does it need to be aided?
...AH HA! a good question!
The answer is...The crack is in a 6-8 ft roof and traverse's with poor feet. It has been freed at around 5.11+ and is only a few moves long. This section is *about* 1/2 way up a very long route with a big approach and descent. When i got to it I looked at it and said" Hmmm i think i can free that", "But I'm just going to yard through a couple moves and keep moving". Which is what most folks do there. Including the first ascenionist's.....one of whom went back a number of years later and freed it.
It's one of those things you do *sometimes* on big routes to move quick. We did the route in under 6hrs. CTC in 10HR20M. Super fun day! Highly recomended!
josh
(This post was edited by flamer on Jan 5, 2007, 6:49 AM)
|
|
|
Edit Log:
|
|
Post edited by flamer
() on Jan 5, 2007, 6:49 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|
