Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [redpoint73] Anchoring Belayer: Edit Log




petje


Mar 8, 2007, 9:02 AM

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Registered: Oct 10, 2003
Posts: 309

Re: [redpoint73] Anchoring Belayer
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redpoint73 wrote:
I don't agree with petje. If your rope is small enough diameter, you can usually feed rope w/o holding the cam open. But if you throw out slack fast enough (which often happens) you will engage the cam. With fatter ropes, and ones that are worn and fuzzed the device will autolock very frequently when you try to pay out slack.

As jgloporto mentions, the Petzl instructions state that you can usually pay out slack w/o holding open the cam. Then it says: when necessary, take your brake hand off to hold open the cam, then return your hand to the brake side of the rope immediately.

That said, there is a method in which you can use either your thumb or pinky (possibly in addition to the ring finger) to hold open the cam. I use this method and believe it to be the best way to use a Grigri. You still have most of your fingers on the brake side of the rope, which is plenty to lock off in the event of the fall. So even if the device fails to cam, or you totally botched it and threaded the rope into the Grigri backwards, the device will still act as an ATC and catch the fall on friction alone. Your thumb or pinky supplies enough leverage to hold open the cam and feed rope, but not enough to hold it open in the event of a fall (unless you have mutant thumbs). Plus, you can quickly return your thumb or pinky to the brake rope when not paying out slack, more so than having to move your whole hand from the device back to the rope like the Petzl instructions suggest.

This method takes a bit of practice, and is a bit different from person to person. For instance, my partner uses his thumb to hold the cam open. My hand is too small to get my hand in the right position for this, so I use my pinky. Most people are not strong enough to hold the cam open w. just the pinky, so in that case you will use your pinky and ring finger.

This is an often used alternative practice, and better than holding the cam with a whole hand.
But still your are;
- letting go of the break rope
- holding the cam down (be it only with one finger, but still...)

I use a method where you don't have to touch the cam at all, and does it's work with even fairly big diametered ropes (10.5 mm is no prob)

I hope you forgive me bad drawing, maybe someday i make photos.



in the first picture it's hopefully good to see what a grigri does when someone falls, or someone pulls on the rope. The upper rope takes the cam up and blocks/pinches the lower rope thus breaking.

so to give rope we only have to be able for the upper rope to NOT pinch the lower rope via the cam.

this is fairly easy if you imagine the second drawing.



To get the grigri to do this when pulling on the upper rope to give rope to the climber, i hold the grigri with my right hand on the RIGHT Side (and so away from the cam, not touching it at all) and pushing it down. so it gets the angle as in the drawing.
I even have part of my fingers on the lower rope all the time, so i don't violate the rule of letting the brake rope go.

i dare to say that this is foolsproof, and safer as any other variant for belaying a lead climber with a grigri.


(This post was edited by petje on Mar 8, 2007, 9:08 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by petje () on Mar 8, 2007, 9:06 AM
Post edited by petje () on Mar 8, 2007, 9:08 AM


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