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Climbing Disciplines:
Alpine & Ice:
Re: [skinner] scary rap:
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majid_sabet
Mar 22, 2007, 11:52 PM
Views: 1335
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
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Me and partner just finished the last pitch of a 5.10 climb on some peak but then weather turned in to an ugly gorilla. At 13500 feet , frozen rain started to fall down on us .
We started to rap down to get out of the situation and had 4 full 60 meter to rap. The last 20 meter was loose class 4 and we were going to walk it down. Partner started to rap down and I followed till he reached the so called last rap.
Near sunset in full rain, he missed the last bolt and ended up on some small ledge and he could not locate the rap ring. He asked if I could rap down slowly and scan for any thing that we could attached the rope to but no good. Half way in to rap I saw a piece of rock cone sticking out with a small crack above it. Just wide enough of to stick #1 metoulis cam in there.
I said I found some thing but is scary and he said fuc8 it, just use it because there is nothing between the cone and the ledge. I placed the cam in the hole and attacked myself to it via short sling and then sit on the cone and pull the twin 60 meter from the above chain.
So now, I am sitting on the cone with one half as* cam and partner is 30 feet below me on a half as* ledge and still 250 feet of rap to go.
Fuc*ing cold rain in Nov and both us were sitting like a dumb as*s on the rock. I put the mid point of the rope over the cone and ran a biner from the rope in to # 1 cam for back up. Then asked partner to slowly rap down without pushing against the rock because the cone was slippery and the whole thing was scary.
Partner made it down to last section which was class 4. Then it was my time to rap. I attached the belay device (ATC) and told partner to put the tension on the rope so it does not slip then once I had my weight on the cone, I removed the cam and sling ( Did not want to leave my shi* in the wall). I slowly rap down till I got near him .By then; the mid point on the rope was only 1-2 inches away from the tip of cone.
We made it back to camp safe but what experience that was.
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(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Mar 22, 2007, 11:54 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by majid_sabet
() on Mar 22, 2007, 11:54 PM
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