Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [nashvegas] Advice on Cams: Edit Log




jgailor


Apr 19, 2007, 9:40 PM

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Registered: Sep 28, 2005
Posts: 75

Re: [nashvegas] Advice on Cams
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Aliens - work great on pin-scars/finger cracks (both horizontal and vertical). Lot of controversy right now because of a recall with defective manufacturing. Supposedly one of the best cams for the features that they address though.

C3's - Supposed to serve the same purpose as Aliens, most people don't like them as much. Mostly controversy free.

C4's - Standard cams. These are workhorses good on most anything

Metolius Power Cams - Similar to C4's, supposed to be better on sandstone and softer rock. Also have the rangefinders on the side which some people like, some people distrust.

As a point of reference I have a full rack of C4's (yes, even the 6... got it at a ridiculously reduced price at the Red Rock Rendezvous), and they are fine, dependable pieces. I'm starting to get a set of power cams, so I can't comment personally, but many people think well of them. I have 1/2 a set of aliens, and will be finishing the rest in the coming weeks. They look really sketchy, but feel bomber once you place them.

There is also hybrid aliens, which have 2 different sets of cam lobe sizes, for flaring pin scars/cracks. I have the black/blue, but haven't had occasion to use it.

If you don't have any stoppers, you should get a set of those first, 1 - 13. They are basic gear and you should be able to place them before worrying too much about cams. Not to put down cams, but because you should learn to crawl before you walk.


(This post was edited by jgailor on Apr 19, 2007, 9:42 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jgailor () on Apr 19, 2007, 9:42 PM


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