Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [bobruef] Souders Crack 11d groundfall: Edit Log




mojomonkey


May 10, 2007, 5:19 PM

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Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869

Re: [bobruef] Souders Crack 11d groundfall
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So what is the deal with having the cam looked at by an independent metalurgist? I just talked to Dave at CCH to try and get some info from his perspective.

He says he has been trying to get the cam sent to an independent metalurgist, by the person reporting the failure is not responding at all or sending the cam for analysis. Why?

He also said his requests for details (age of rope and how many falls it has had, belay set up, etc) have not been answered. He doesn't read rc.com or other forums and wants info from the source, which is reasonable. So pinsandbons, why aren't you participating as much as possible to get this resolved instead of whipping up an online frenzy? I think he and CCH could be handling this much better...

Anyway, Dave said he will put some info on their site, not here. He didn't think there was any weight behind the theory that the cable had not been fully inserted for brazing. It seemed like his ideas were the wire being pulled over the crack right at the braze, or the fall somehow generating more force than one would initially expect. The latter was the conclusion from the Metolius failure gramps posted, so I guess I won't think it is grasping at straws yet. He wouldn't guess at a scenario though without more information and testing, he just tossed out a few ideas.

As for their testing, a length of cable is cut and the top (I forgot what he called it) of the cam is brazed onto both ends. This is what is pull tested. After it passes, the cable is cut and swaged (stamped tensile tested), and the lobes/etc are attached.


(This post was edited by mojomonkey on May 10, 2007, 5:21 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by mojomonkey () on May 10, 2007, 5:21 PM


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