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Re: [mtnfr34k] To retro or not?:
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summerprophet
May 18, 2007, 2:34 PM
Views: 14646
Registered: Jan 17, 2004
Posts: 764
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Mtfr34k,
I have established more than 30 routes, bolting when reqiured, and sometimes setting bold routes.
I would NOT, under any circumstances retro bolt a route without DISTINCT permission from the first accent party. You run the risk of being ostracised by the climbing community, ruining a bold exciting line and creating a discusting line of chopped bolts.
I understand that the FA party ran the gear thin due to financial considerations, but that just adds to the story and history of the climb. Isn't it great that you know the history and can debate these issues?
Putting up a new route is an art form. In the areas that I have developed, there is a number of safe, well protected routes and just two or three spicy routes where you need to keep your wits about you. The goal was to make an area where everyone has something to get excited about.
It seems that the route sees a lot of traffic, which makes me think that there might be a number of people who enjoy the route as is, in addidtion it seems like it is rather public knowledge that the route is a serious undertaking.
It is respectable that you want to make it safer, and protect it for the masses, but you would be ruining both the history and the excitement of the climb.
Isn't it cool that the climb was put up in bold fashion by a couple young kids who didn't have the funds to placee as many bolts as they wanted, rather than "yeah, some dude retro bolted it back in 2007, so now its a piece of cake".
Before making the final choice, ask yourself these questions.
Is there a variety of routes in the area of similar difficulty?
Is the runout realistically dangerous? Or is it 5.8 or 5.9 runout climbing to a bolted 5.10 crux.
Is there gear placements that are there, but just difficult or fiddley to use.
Does the route see a number of accents in its as is state. (grass growing on it)
Please respect the wishes of the accent party. If they disagree, try to sit them down together and discuss the issues, but also be aware that the climbing community may not be behind you on this.
(This post was edited by summerprophet on May 18, 2007, 3:01 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by summerprophet
() on May 18, 2007, 3:01 PM
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