Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [ja1484] yet another rack question: Edit Log




the_climber


Sep 4, 2007, 7:34 PM

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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142

Re: [ja1484] yet another rack question
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It sounds like a good start, but like the others are saying, go with the WC hexes. I have some of both, and like both, but am considering cutting the wires out of the BD's and slinging them with tech cord. Straight vs. curved... both have pros and cons, IMHO neither really comes out on top with the pros and cons, but the curved do seem to work very well in the local limestone around here.

To give you an Idea what I started with (the replacement at least, my original gear met an untimely end due to getting crushed by the truck which rear-ended me at 80+km/h when I was stopped):

#3-#13 Smileys (Basically the same a ABC nuts)
#1.5 DMM 3CU
#2.5, #3.5, #4 Friends
#8, #9 BD Hexes

A 5m cord, a double sling, 6 single slings, 4 draws, and two lockers. (obviously excluding my belay device and racking biners... all 4 of themSly)

I was able to get up many routes on Yamnuska and around the Bow Valley with that, up to about 5.7/5.8.


#0.5 through #2 Tricams came shortly after (limited cash at time of purchace).

I guess my point is that you can 'get by' with a smaller rack. Actually I think many climbers would benift (skill wize) by starting out with less gear, it forces you to really work on spotting those placements.


(This post was edited by the_climber on Sep 4, 2007, 7:43 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by the_climber () on Sep 4, 2007, 7:40 PM
Post edited by the_climber () on Sep 4, 2007, 7:43 PM


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