Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Re: [ja1484] Please leave fixed gear alone: Edit Log




hsvclimber


Sep 27, 2007, 9:00 PM

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Registered: Jun 17, 2005
Posts: 65

Re: [ja1484] Please leave fixed gear alone
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"yeah, I know about convention and the usual ethic/policy - leave fixed project draws alone. It's stupid. Clean your sh!t up when you go home, and re-hang it next time out. The crag isn't your bedroom.

That said, fixed draws (this means chain or quicklinked) should be considered crag property, a la bolts, anchors, etc. But don't be surprised if you leave your personal draws on a project and they disappear or bail biners get swiped. There are a lot of people out there that don't know any better/don't give a rat's ass."

We aren't talking about leaving project draws or fixing complete routes!

Have you ever climbed at either of the two areas mentioned?

It is normal at these areas with long low roofs or traverses (as the case with the routes the OP was referring to), to have a single fixed biner halfway down the route, either mid traverse or just below the roof to aid in cleaning the draws off the route. It is not clipped during the RP.

At both of these areas the steeper routes (ex Concave and Left Bunker) routes are completely fixed. People know to leave these biners alone. They however don't know the area technique to clean a route using the fixed cleaner biner...

After reading your post I assume you wouldn't know how to use the cleaner biner either and bootie it as a bail biner...


(This post was edited by hsvclimber on Sep 27, 2007, 9:01 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by hsvclimber () on Sep 27, 2007, 9:01 PM


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