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Re: [tkambitsch] Twin and Double rope techniques on two 10.2 single ropes:
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chossmonkey
Nov 2, 2007, 1:59 PM
Views: 5153
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
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tkambitsch wrote: vegastradguy, does your comment about not falling before the first clip imply a new risk that I am not seeing? It seems to me that it doesn't matter whether you are on a single rope or using a double rope technique, if you miss that first clip on an upper pitch you are going to be seriously hurting with a factor 2 fall. Certainly there will be a harsher impact with a single 10.2 rope than falling on one of a double, but that is a risk that single rope climbers face every day.
A single strand in a factor two should not exceed 12kN because it can stretch. Use two ropes that aren't designed to be used together and your 12kN max would be doubled to make a force up to 24kN depending on your ropes.
If you belayed with just the one rope until the first piece is put in and had a bunch of slack in the other so the wouldn't come tight the same you could avoid the situation. But if that first piece ripped and you had taken up the slack in the second rope you would be looking at ripping your belay again.
(This post was edited by chossmonkey on Nov 6, 2007, 12:28 AM)
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Post edited by chossmonkey
() on Nov 6, 2007, 12:28 AM
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