tytonic
Dec 16, 2007, 7:06 AM
Views: 18976
Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 18
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Here are the words straight from Long's book.
"A tie-in knot that is quick and easy to tie, easy to adjust for length once tied, and that unties easily is naturally a knot welcomed by climbers. The clove hitch is such an knot. Some climbers believe the trade-off for all this utility is that the clove hitches reportedly slip at around 1,000 pounds of load, although tests have shown that a clove hitch will in fact not slip in a dynamic rope . . ." (Long J, Gaines B. Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition. 2006. p. 121)
Like others have said above, John Long goes on to say that the clove hitch has slipped when tested in static ropes and includes a few other common sense warnings.
Sounds like to me tying in with a clove hitch is fine.
Edited: A clove hitch is ok for tying into the anchor. Obviously, its not ok for tying the rope to your harness.
(This post was edited by tytonic on Dec 16, 2007, 7:31 AM)
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