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Re: [bigwhitej] Clipping into Belay Loop!!:
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shoo
Jun 26, 2008, 3:44 AM
Views: 13379
Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
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bigwhitej wrote: It really should not be problem except that the belay loop is not rated for a dynamic fall. It is really only for static weight. So with top roping if the belayer has the rope fairly tight the whole time then there should be no issue but I personally would not trust it any sort of a dynamic fall.
Laang, please direct yourself the manuals of virtually every harness manufacturer in the business as well as the numerous independent tests performed on the subject. Your statement is hopelessly misinformed.
Belay loops are probably the single burliest piece on your harness. They are made to withstand forces that would have killed you long before the loop would have broken a metaphorical sweat.
The real reason I hate gyms and organizations clipping in with carabiners and requiring belaying with gri-gris is because both practices encourage complacence. In the absence of proper knowledge and experience, which they are often used to replace, they are dangerous.
Edited to note: You are absolutely correct in that it is better to tie in properly rather than clip in with a carabiner. No disagreements there.
I disagree with your statement about wear. Rope-on-harness interaction will wear a harness far more than carabiner on rope except in those rare circumstances where the gate of the biner catches or something.
(This post was edited by shoo on Jun 26, 2008, 3:47 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by shoo
() on Jun 26, 2008, 3:47 AM
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