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Re: [billl7] Anchors - Analysis (part II):
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ahimsa
Nov 17, 2008, 3:41 PM
Views: 16059
Registered: Mar 19, 2005
Posts: 104
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With a sliding "X" isn't there a problem where, if one piece blows the second piece will be shock-loaded because the anchor will slip to the end of the runner. If each strand of the "X" is attached to a cordalete with two pieces of pro i.e. a bomber anchor, i wouldn't see this as a problem. But it's usually not so i tend to only use a sliding "X" with two bomber bolts. Sounds like others use it a lot more frequently, am i missing something or are those folks just assuming a piece wont blow?!
In reply to: The equalette can be biner-d into using a sliding 'X'. However, Long/Gaines tested (and recommended) biner-ing into each of the two strands individually to avoid an 'X's tendancy to sort of pinching itself as it shifts along the strands and so sticks. I think the word they used was the 'clutch' effect of the 'X'. In their tests, I believe nothing out-performed the sliding 'X' in a horizontal crack with equal-length legs. Bill L
*edited for clarification of quote*
(This post was edited by ahimsa on Nov 17, 2008, 3:42 PM)
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Post edited by ahimsa
() on Nov 17, 2008, 3:42 PM
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