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Climbing Disciplines:
Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Re: [skiclimb] How about this Nose itinerary?:
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baffinislanders
Feb 6, 2009, 3:55 AM
Views: 9264
Registered: Jun 1, 2004
Posts: 13
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Well, skiclimb, if you want to make public your experience with a Newbie on the shield in 1999, why don't I be the one to explain that the said Newbie had actually completed a big wall at that time, unlike you. Your lying about having completed the Triple Direct the year before, in addition with said newbie having completed a grade V made him think he was capable of the ascent if he had a partner who actually had climbed El Cap as opposed to simply lying about it. Newbie was not stoked to reverse the Shield headwall with you and was super gripped, but part of that was because you didn't display any of the courage and confidence that a typical El Cap veteran would have. Furthermore, part of the lagging on that climb was because you had no portaledge, and insisted on a $9 walmart hammock that took you hours to set up underneath my single, leaving you sleep deprived and malnourished as a result of your soda theory.
The first and only time you climbed El Cap, you were the Newbie, and your strategy of drinking only soda pop based on a rationale of intaking both calories and hydration backfired on you. Apparently the sugar shock and crash impeded your performance enough to cause one of your only leads that your teammates were willing to grant you --on the Shield headwall -- to take over four hours.
Since then, you have stopped climbing entirely yet continue to post on this site as if you are even remotely credible these days. Newbie has climbed about 20 walls (6 on El Cap, including the Nose) and has completed 6 international expeditions, and even he doesn't have the desire to spend time commenting on the strategy for the Nose (which you haven't even come close to climbing), or any other matter unless he's looking for expedition partners or expressing condolences for deceased friends.
Newbie's advice to you; stop spending time behind the computer giving unproven advice to beginners, dig out your dusty harness, and do something for god's sake.
(This post was edited by baffinislanders on Feb 6, 2009, 4:10 AM)
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