jrathfon
Mar 30, 2009, 5:30 PM
Views: 21603
Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 494
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my onsight rack there:
nuts: BD 4-10, double on 6-8, then a set of micros minus the 2 super tiny ones, that gives you doubles in the 4 and 5 range
tricams: yup pink, red, brown (150+ foot pitches i'll add the next one (blue))
cams: i essentially carry double from blue #0.3 to yellow #2 unless i'm doing a thin route in which case i'll ditch from 0.75 up and add c3's. that breaks down as follows: aliens blue - yellow, single c4's .3, .4, double c4 from 0.5 to 2. adding c3 0, 1, and 2 accordingly and dropping c4 1's and 2's and a single 0.75.
note: the guidebook mentions when a #3 is helpful, so unless the guide notes it, i leave it on the ground. VERY few routes need a #4 or #5.
summary: pink-brown tricam, nuts from micro to #10, double in the 4-8, aliens blue to yellow, c4 0.3 - 2, double c4's from 0.5 to 1 or 2. c3's good for the thin routes.
edit to add:
oh yeah, slings. i carry 6-10 trad draws (some pitches can be 150+ ft, others 50), if it's a bolted belay i'll bring a double length and do a limited sliding-x, if it's trad belays, i'll bring a cordalette (have a 2nd with your partner for consecutive trad belays), i'll add 1 or 2 double length slings for routes with hard turn corners, large roofs, large trees, etc. (modern times, umm casablanca, umm, can't think, but lots of routes traverse under roofs)
HELMET!
(This post was edited by jrathfon on Mar 30, 2009, 5:36 PM)
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