Forums: Rockclimbing.com: Suggestions & Feedback: Re: [Johnny_Fang] Deaths of rock climbers in Gorge blamed on error: Edit Log




majid_sabet


May 27, 2009, 10:57 PM

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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390

Re: [Johnny_Fang] Deaths of rock climbers in Gorge blamed on error
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Johnny_Fang wrote:
i would have never known about it had it not been posted here when it originally happened. i'm not about to make a note to myself everytime i hear of an accident to google it every few days looking for the results. i'm not THAT dedicated to it. majid is dedicated to it, morbid and creepy though it may be, and it serves a purpose for people like me who retain an interest but not the drive to follow-up every few days.

your argument is twofold: there is no analysis, and this serves no purpose on the forum.

posting this article served a purpose to me (and it sounds like a few others) hence, one of your arguments is faulty.

there is an analysis of what occurred, it is in the newspaper article. hence, your second argument is faulty.

i think your bitterness here stems more from majid's past behavior and his generally irritating tone. that's understandable, but don't let it override your rationality.

even news articles pre-analysis, just articles mentioning a fall, have been helpful in the past when people who were involved, who never had posted on rc.com and were likely never TO post on rc.com, have responded with details which led to analysis.

it's OK to admit you were wrong about this one, but to say that majid really needs to keep it in control. like he did here.

Ok, here is my analysis based on MY OWN by reading the original report in April 5 and what I posed here today.

This accident involved with two fatalities. One of the climbers was an instructor and very well experienced. The other was student with least climbing knowledge based on my take; both climbers were above a route some 50 feet high of the deck setting up an anchor for TR or rappelling purpose. The instructor was probably planning to place a three piece anchor and installed the first nut in a crack and secured the student and himself with some sort of static cord ( ie Webbing).While she was working to place the addition passive or active gear, one of them (not sure who) lost his or her footing and fell directly in to anchor( only one nut) shock loading the entire anchor causing it to fail. Since both climbers were tied-in to the same anchor with one cord, the falling climber pull the other down in chain reaction.

How could they have prevented this accident?

1-The answer has been said in this forum at least a dozen times by me as the term “two meter death zone”.

2-What is two meter death zone?

Simple, any climber that is within two meter of any fall which they may get hurt should anchor themselves to a secure anchor via proper cord.

3-What is a secure anchor?

An anchor that is not made of single piece two or three but strong enough to withstand a fall factor two for party of two climbers falling off an anchor at the same time. Again, I have said that a bunch times while everyone else joked about my min 20kn anchor requirement (see current two piece thread in general).

4-What is proper cord?

Any material that can secure two falling climber to a solid anchor (climbing rope, proper size Purcell prussic etc).

5-The instructor failed by allowing a student to be near a two meter death zone when their anchor was not fixed.

6-A student should never be linked to an unsafe anchor. Not when instructor is building or showing how to place an anchor.

7-This accident was easily avoidable if both climbers were anchored with a rope and away from the edge during anchor setup.

My deepest condolences to the family member of both climbers

MS


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on May 27, 2009, 10:59 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by majid_sabet () on May 27, 2009, 10:59 PM


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