Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners: Re: [dbogardus] Clipping into Nuts: Edit Log




Partner robdotcalm


Dec 2, 2009, 4:53 PM

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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027

Re: [dbogardus] Clipping into Nuts
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dbogardus wrote:
Is there any problem with clipping into a biner which is directly on a nut?

One addition to the good replies already given to your post. There is one circumstance in which it can be optimal to use just a carabiner clipped directly to a nut. A hard move occurs just off the ground. You can reach up and place a nut. It will only protect you for the first couple of moves so might as well short clip it since you don't care if it pulls out as you move past it. Also, since short lengths of rope are involved shortening the distance you fall significantly decreases the fall factor and hence the force on the piece. After you've climbed, say, 10 feet or so this effect is negligible.

Cheers,
Rob.calm


(This post was edited by robdotcalm on Dec 2, 2009, 4:55 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by robdotcalm () on Dec 2, 2009, 4:55 PM


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