Forums: Community: Campground: Re: [Gmburns2000] Sty's Post Count Increaser : Edit Log




notapplicable


Mar 23, 2010, 2:21 AM

Views: 8543

Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771

Re: [Gmburns2000] Sty's Post Count Increaser
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
donald949 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
donald949 wrote:
Also, had a little miss hap.

I Meat Bomb'd the Noobz.

We get to the Big Rock, and its only the 2nd nice weekend since jan 1st, and the parking lot is full.
Oh well.
Hoping to work some stuff on the left, but its all roped up. I squizze in between two groups on the right and rope up.
Climb past the first bolt, standing on a couple slopers, hands on slopers, and feet are sliding. I don't think the route is all that hard, maybe an 8, with the crux being where I'm at. But still. Quick dessicion move up to the good 3/4" edge, and clip the second bolt before I slide off. I don't make the edge.
Peel and fall. Tim locks up catchs me no problem. Right ankle must have gotten twisted on the way down, as its tender. Right hand has a blister, yes the joys of slab.
But otherwise Im fine.
Tim is looking past me.
I turn around.
The young ladies from the local U are out climbing with their class. Shocked
Their eyes were that big.
they were right behind me.
And I just meat bombed them. Laugh

Other than the ankle, thats pretty funny. It's great to see all heads turn when somebody takes a good fall.

I didn't take any terror inducers like that but a few falls did happen yesterday. I was climbing with the new guy and two weeks ago was the first time he had lead a route or belayed a lead, so this time round I took a fall so he could catch one and then he took two falls to get a feel for it. He seemed to dig it actually, which is a good sign.

Yes, other than the ankle it was pretty funny.

I've occasionally thought about taking practice leader falls. Say at an anchor, rather than a single piece.
What do you do to set up practice falls?
It would be good if I had some instinct when falling. Most of mine have not turned out well.

I've taken all of my practice falls in a gym, usually at least three bolts up.

I did tell Jen to take a practice fall once because she was petrified of what was above her. It was on a bolt and there was another bolt below that (plenty of distance if the top bolt busted). It worked and she sent pretty well.

I'm not sure I'd ever take a practice fall on gear, though. Too many variable that could go wrong.

Just remember, be a cat: bent arms and knees, go with the fall, and let your bendable limbs absorb the fall rather than be stiff and try to fight it.

I'm not real big in to practice falls but if taking or catching them will make a person feel more at ease, I'll help em out. A person concerned with and distracted by something as elementary (to climbing) as falling is a dangerous person to tie in with IMO.


(This post was edited by notapplicable on Mar 23, 2010, 2:21 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by notapplicable () on Mar 23, 2010, 2:21 AM


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