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Re: [ClimbClimb] Ruptured Distal Biceps Tendon:
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AntinJ
Apr 14, 2010, 2:22 PM
Views: 16063
Registered: Aug 4, 2008
Posts: 475
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ClimbClimb wrote: Very sorry to hear that. Hope you get patched up and heal soon. For the rest of us, do you have any information, either on your own intuition or what you've heard since, on what caused that to happen? so the rest of us can try to avoid it, that is?
Oh man, I wish I knew!
I was bouldering indoors on a slightly overhanging problem. I had stretched for about 10 minutes prior and completed about 4-5 easier problems before jumping on that final route.
I was moving up and left with all 4 points of contact on the wall with my hands over-head on two holds about 4 feet apart from each other. My arms were both bent at the elbow at about 100 degrees. The holds were juggy, but required a pinch grip. My feet both slipped off the wall and as I tried to re-stabilize myself and get back on the wall, my body rotated slightly counter clockwise. After being suspended in the air for about 2 seconds from my arms I heard 2-3 loud rips/pops in succession coming from my right bicep. I knew exactly what I did as soon as it happened, but there was very little pain until I began the drive from RI to the ED in Concord, MA. Overall, the pain has remained relatively minimal when the arm is not in use.
I'm 27 5'10 and weigh about 215lbs. I have participated in competitive athletics (Football, Baseball, MMA, BJJ, etc.) my entire life and have been frequently climbing since the summer of 2008 without any debilitating injuries. I Exercise about 6-7 days a week, and spend about 20-40 minutes each day warming up and stretching thoroughly (dynamic & static). I have exerted my body to much more intense forces in the past through sports, training, etc so it was quite a shock to me that this happened when it did.
The Orthopedic Surgeon said he was somewhat surprised that I did not feel tendon pain in the weeks leading up to the incident, but explained that these do occur without notice or warning.
Yesterday I had a 90 minute MRI which confirmed a full Disruption of the right Distal Biceps Tendon. I have surgery on Friday morning to screw that sucker back in place (Single Incision Endobutton Procedure). I was definitely excited to learn from my doctor about new developments regarding this type of surgery over the last year or two, as they have drastically changed their methodology regarding recovery and rehabilitation protocols (Read up on this if it happens to you).
To answer your question directly ClimbClimb; I'm pretty shocked it happened as well and can't offer too much advice at this time as to how one might avoid it! The only comfort I can add to the average climber out there is that I am of larger build compared to the typical climber and participate in strength training often. I can only assume that this combination of activities led to additional stress on the tendon.
I'll leave it at that. If this happens to anyone in the future, please do not hesitate to contact me for additional info. I'd be glad to help.
-Jason
UPDATES:
4/9/2010 - Injury Occurred (Indoor bouldering)
4/16/2010 - Surgery (Single Incision w/ Cortical Screw a.k.a EndoButton)
4/30/2010 - Sling Off and Stitches Taken out
5/1/2010 - 99% ROM, still some stiffness and very mild soreness
5/28/2010 - 2nd Follow-up Dr's Appointment w/ X-Rays. Full ROM, Cleared to weight train with repetitions 12 or greater and Climb (with multiple points on the rock at all times)
5/29/2010 - Climbed for the first time since injury. TR'd some 5.8's & 5.9's and did an easy lead. Arm felt great.
6/2/2010 - Climbed again in similar fashion as before.
9/5/20110 - Climbing @ more than 100%
7/21/2011 - Climbing harder than ever with no pain.
*Also been doing my own rehab daily with more aggressive gym training 4-5 times per week. Feel free to inquire about my PT regimen.
An informative website: http://tendonsurgeryinfo.com/
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Jul 21, 2011, 2:46 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by AntinJ
() on May 2, 2010, 12:06 PM: Updates in case someone else encounters this injury
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Post edited by AntinJ
() on May 3, 2010, 11:56 AM
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Post edited by AntinJ
() on May 30, 2010, 10:57 AM
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Post edited by AntinJ
() on May 30, 2010, 10:58 AM
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Post edited by AntinJ
() on Jun 3, 2010, 1:43 PM: Updates
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Post edited by AntinJ
() on Jun 3, 2010, 4:22 PM
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Post edited by AntinJ
() on Jul 21, 2011, 2:46 PM
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