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Building a crack machine / crack machine for technique?:
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USnavy
May 5, 2010, 11:19 AM
Views: 15760
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
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I am considering building a crack machine to put up at the local gym to help work on some basic crack climbing technique as our crags don't offer much crack climbing.
The crack would be 12' - 15' high and vertical. It must be fully adjustable from offwith to tips. The key is I would like it to be adjustable fast (i.e. a climber does a lap with offwith then goes to a lap of tips then a lap of fists, and so on). Consequently the whole bolt / All Thread idea most people use wont work as that takes too long to adjust. So I think I may mount the adjustable side of the crack to a sheet of wood. The sheet of wood will be mounted to two or three medium duty sliding drawer tracks which will then be mounted to the climbing wall. But the question is how can I lock the sliding side of the crack into place sense it will be on a track?
Once built should I line the crack with some type of grit? Previous searches shows about 50/50 with some saying its a bad idea as it will rip your hands up and the other half saying its important to do such as you cannot get any friction for the feet without it. How about using fine grit, fine enough to provide some friction but not rip the hands to hell. Is that a good idea?
Is it even worth building, will it help teach any technique at all? My idea was to read a book about crack climbing then go and practice the locks and techniques taught in the book on the crack machine. Is this a reasonable method of learning before I take a trip to Yosemite and actually try some cracks?
(This post was edited by USnavy on May 5, 2010, 11:27 AM)
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Post edited by USnavy
() on May 5, 2010, 11:27 AM
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