Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [USnavy] Building a crack machine / crack machine for technique?: Edit Log




lonequail


May 5, 2010, 3:02 PM

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Registered: Jun 8, 2004
Posts: 65

Re: [USnavy] Building a crack machine / crack machine for technique?
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You definately want to textureize it. A smooth crack will force you to overpower your jams. To work on technique it is better to have some friction and to mimic the rough texture of rock. If you want to make it more difficult then set it for the "off" sizes, or make it flare or overhanging. Learn finesse not power.

For good texture use a fine sand - the stuff added to paint to roughen steps works well. Normal laytex paint will work for a while but the grit wears off. For long term performance you may want an epoxy paint or some nasty maring stuff. You can probably also get stick-on strips, but at a high price.

Adjustability is needed, but for the OW size you'll probably need a much deeper crack to swim in. I actually have two cracks; one made from 2"x12"s for up to rattley fists, and one made from 4'x8' plywood. It is short but still a good learning tool.


(This post was edited by lonequail on May 5, 2010, 3:07 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by lonequail () on May 5, 2010, 3:04 PM
Post edited by lonequail () on May 5, 2010, 3:07 PM


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