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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] What can a belayer do?:
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rgold
Aug 25, 2010, 10:13 PM
Views: 9237
Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
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What Jay says is pretty much all you'll be able to do in the approximately one second you'd have had.
As others have pointed out, that one step back may only buy you an inch or so of increased "take" and so may not be worth anything. If the ground is uneven and the step causes you to fall awkwardly, it may be a bad bargain all around. I think I'd yard in the slack and sit down where I was.
This is a situation in which a Gri-Gri (or equivalent) confers an advantage. Yarding in with an ATC-type device leaves you with the brake hand up in the air, and it might be impossible to lock off without releasing some of the yarded gains back out.
I'm not sure that encouraging the leader to make it to the second bolt is the best advice. Of course, it depends on the nature of the moves, but by far the best thing than can be done in this situation is for the leader to climb down a bit and get closer to the pro he or she does have, rather than stretching the runout in a possibly futile attempt to reach the next anchor.
As I said, it does depend on the reversibility of the moves already made, but moving up as the universal response to difficulty may be too much a part of gym and sport climbing mentality, to the point where a strategic retreat isn't even on the option list when things get gnarly.
The decking potential was something that presumably could have been noted from the ground, before the lead was begun, and so moving from the first to the second clip might have been done with more focus on reversibility.
(This post was edited by rgold on Aug 25, 2010, 11:02 PM)
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Post edited by rgold
() on Aug 25, 2010, 11:02 PM
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