Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [kennoyce] Half ropes, same manufacturer?: Edit Log




bill413


Sep 9, 2010, 10:19 PM

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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [kennoyce] Half ropes, same manufacturer?
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kennoyce wrote:
In reply to:
Read the little brochure that comes with your half ropes. It should tell you that it is ok to use clip half ropes to one piece ala twin rope technique, but once you split the ropes, you must clip each rope to a separate biner if clipping both to the same piece. The point of that being that after split, there are 2 different lengths of rope out. If you clip them to the same biner and fall, one rope will stretch more than the other (due to different lengths), causing rope on rope friction at the biner.

Read this from Mammut:
http://www.mammut.ch/...A457AB48D569015B6797
It doesn't go into the specifics about not bringing them back together after splitting, but DOES say you can climb with half ropes using twin rope technique.

I don't see anyone using halfs this way very often, but good to know why it is acceptable, when you can do it, and what the potential downsides are.

Just want to point out that while this may be fine from the rope manufacturers point of view (i.e. the rope won't break, ane will catch your fall), It certainly is not something that should ever be done. Clipping both ropes into one piece will dramatically increase the forces on that piece should you fall.

For the OP's question, twin ropes should always be the same brand and model, with half ropes it doesn't really matter.

Yes - perhaps increase it to the level it would feel with a single fat rope.

Actually, if you are trying to do double rope with one single & one half, this would increase the impact forces on the piece and on you - possibly even past the point of safety.


(This post was edited by bill413 on Sep 9, 2010, 10:20 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by bill413 () on Sep 9, 2010, 10:20 PM


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