|
|
Forums:
Climbing Information:
Accident and Incident Analysis:
Re: [jt512] Grigri mistake, climber decks:
Edit Log
|
|
USnavy
Sep 21, 2010, 11:57 AM
Views: 10065
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
jt512 wrote: I_do wrote: jt512 wrote: I_do wrote: jt512 wrote: patto wrote: jt512 wrote: In reply to: Do you suggest that a competent belay can be given if the brake strand is occasionally let go? Yes, using "classic" Petzl-approved belay method in the video.
To my knowledge all previous GriGri instructions specified that you must NEVER let go of the brake strand. If you are letting go of the brake strand then you are doing it wrong. The video mention specifically mentions reduced grip, not no grip during the 'classic' grigri style. Well, you're right about one thing. They've changed their instructions, which now only describe "method 2" in the video for feeding slack quickly. However, older versions of the instructions did say that it was permissible to use what they now call the "classic" method, and they did not show the index finger and thumb around the rope, as they seem to in the video. Keeping the index finger and thumb around the rope was a climber innovation. Here are Petzl's instructions for how to pay out slack quickly with a grigri from an old version of their website. Click on "Paying out slack with a grigri." This is what they advocated for years. Below is the relevant picture from the web page. Note the belayer's belay hand position in the third frame. It's not touching the rope. Jay With all your anal safety gripes you actually think that's a good or even acceptable idea? I have anal safety gripes? Name one. I've already answered the question of whether I think it's safe. If you want me to elaborate, try re-ask the question in a respectful manner. Jay How can a belayer be so inattentive that they fail to notice 50 feet of rope running through their hands?
Like this:
(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 21, 2010, 11:58 AM)
|
|
|
Edit Log:
|
|
Post edited by USnavy
() on Sep 21, 2010, 11:57 AM
|
|
Post edited by USnavy
() on Sep 21, 2010, 11:58 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|
