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Re: [bill413] Grigri mistake, climber decks:
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jt512
Nov 18, 2010, 6:01 PM
Views: 6989
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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bill413 wrote: jape wrote: it looks like kind of what I call the "lazy thumb" position where if you aren't paying attention your thumb wings off... I've paid a lot more attention and am still trying to work out the kinks in gri belaying, used to have bad habits for sure....never dropped someone and have caught a lot of falls, but it's nothing to deek around with. Your thumb wings off if the GriGri starts to catch. Not guaranteed without resistance on the brake strand. A better way to execute this technique is to have the rope held in the same hand that is holding down the cam.
It's not clear to me from the picture what she's doing with the other fingers of her "brake hand." If she is holding the body of the grigri with them, then what she is doing is flat-out dangerous. Her thumb won't be forced off the cam if the climber falls. On the contrary, accidents have occurred using this very "technique" when the belayer instinctively clamped down on the cam with her "brake hand" in response to a fall.
Keeping the thumb of the brake hand on the cam is safe only if you are continuously holding the brake side of the rope with the same hand.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Nov 19, 2010, 7:24 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jt512
() on Nov 19, 2010, 7:24 AM
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