Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [Gabel] Gym fall w/ Tube belay and How to deal with it: Edit Log




healyje


Jan 17, 2011, 11:10 PM

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Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204

Re: [Gabel] Gym fall w/ Tube belay and How to deal with it
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As billcoe_ basically states, decking should NEVER happen - EVER. Period. End of story.

That multiple people here can post up here saying they decked or have seen someone deck or know someone who decked is just plain frightening. It also tells you:

a) The general demographic is out of control
b) Gyms feed a large baseline load of new people into the demographic each year
c) Learning protocols experienced in gyms are wholly inadequate relative to their throughput
d) A lot of folks are climbing who shouldn't be

What we have going on is climbing is becoming part of mainstream culture and experience. This trend exists because gyms are now common enough in each city of any size to act as an both an 'engine' and 'market' for media's increasing use of the imagery.

But the problem with promoting climbing as just another [entitled] form of risk-free, suburban entertainment for all is gravity is both uncooperative and uncompromising. And now that climbing has a social presence, economic motive, and easy access, we've inconspicuously put Darwin hard to work and are turning a blind eye to that fact. In the end the ugly truth is there is no other way to sustain the current demographic [throughput / tidal flow] without threads like these. It's no different then the cost in injuries and deaths we accept as a society in order to drive automobiles.

And it should be noted the type of belay device is wholly irrelevant to belaying safety. In particular note the paradox that while a grigri MIGHT have prevented any given person's decking, their use is generally involved in a majority of deckings.

[ P.S. Yes, Darwin has always played a role in climbing, but he's never had to punch a clock and work the amount of overtime he is nowdays... ]


(This post was edited by healyje on Jan 18, 2011, 3:03 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by healyje () on Jan 17, 2011, 11:11 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jan 17, 2011, 11:13 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jan 17, 2011, 11:14 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jan 17, 2011, 11:16 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jan 17, 2011, 11:17 PM
Post edited by healyje () on Jan 18, 2011, 2:52 AM
Post edited by healyje () on Jan 18, 2011, 3:03 AM


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