Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [zealotnoob] SIGN PETITION to Lama's sponsors; no support for bolting Cerro Torre: Edit Log




Partner j_ung


Jan 27, 2011, 6:03 PM

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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Re: [zealotnoob] SIGN PETITION to Lama's sponsors; no support for bolting Cerro Torre
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zealotnoob wrote:
This isn't just any old lead vs rap bolting debate. This is a question of paying respect to the local and alpine ethic and the history of the stone.

Would anyone in this thread condone rap bolting Canon Cliffs or at the Gunks? How about on Grit or at that sandstone crag in the Czech Republic where you can'n use chalk or cams? I certainly hope not. And, in this case, we're not talking about some little local rock face, we're talking about arguably the most impenetrable and beautiful granite spire on earth.

Sometimes it takes a little activism to protect what you and your community holds dear.

I neither condone it nor otherwise, and the people who don't mind Lama's actions are as much my community as those who do.

I value the history of Cerro Torre, and I hope Lama reconsiders. But I value other things more, one being a principled neutrality in such events. (And before you ask, yes, my stance would be the same if Lama was coming to the New to do something similar, like retro-bolt the Greatest Show.) I don't believe I have the right to exert influence over other peoples' climbing styles, and if I do have that right, then I don't want the responsibility.

Besides, arguing about climbing ethics and style makes me feel like a self-righteous prick. I control what I have to -- my own style and ethics, which matter far more to me than anybody else's.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Jan 27, 2011, 6:17 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by j_ung () on Jan 27, 2011, 6:17 PM
Post edited by j_ung () on Jan 27, 2011, 6:17 PM


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