Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident: Edit Log




wwalt822


Feb 8, 2011, 4:59 PM

Views: 13164

Registered: Nov 10, 2010
Posts: 116

Re: [Rmsyll2] Top-belay accident
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

Rmsyll2 wrote:
"I think you are still confused."

Therefore, this post -- and it may be getting worse, at least for me. What is "the BUS method"? The term "redirect" means to me having the system go beyond the belayer to an anchor, so that the person is only or primarily handling the friction method. The point of pulley advantage seems to be moving away from the belayer's efforts, which Jay raised earlier, and onto the anchor. If a change in direction, with a carabiner as a pulley wheel and possibly in a redirect belay, does increase force on the anchor, that confirms the advantage on the brake hand. And some are still saying they don't use anchors on top-belay anyway. A person standing or sitting on a rim won't be pulled off by a falling climber?

Consensus is a foolish expectation with this forum. But I am heartened that only one reply misspelled "brake" as effectively its opposite.

.

You seem to be very confused. A belay device is only a friction creator. Unless you were to make a complicated and useless z pulley setup of some kind on the brake strand only you do not get any mechanical advantage from a redirect. A redirect is exactly what it sounds like. It redirects the force coming out of the belay device through the anchor or some other piece of protection. The advantage of this is that the belayer can sit back in his harness and belay in pretty much the same way as if he were at the bottom of the cliff belaying a top roper.

I suggest you read up on block and tackle physics.

I don't know anyone that would belay or climb with belayer that was not anchored in unless it was very mellow terrain. I'm guessing when they say they dont use the anchor they mean that they don't belay directly off the anchor.


(This post was edited by wwalt822 on Feb 8, 2011, 5:03 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by wwalt822 () on Feb 8, 2011, 5:02 PM
Post edited by wwalt822 () on Feb 8, 2011, 5:03 PM


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?