Rmsyll2 wrote:
"I think you are still confused."
Therefore, this post -- and it may be getting worse, at least for me. What is "the BUS method"? The term "redirect" means to me having the system go beyond the belayer to an anchor, so that the person is only or primarily handling the friction method. The point of pulley advantage seems to be moving away from the belayer's efforts, which Jay raised earlier, and onto the anchor. If a change in direction, with a carabiner as a pulley wheel and possibly in a redirect belay, does increase force on the anchor, that confirms the advantage on the brake hand. And some are still saying they don't use anchors on top-belay anyway. A person standing or sitting on a rim won't be pulled off by a falling climber?
Consensus is a foolish expectation with this forum. But I am heartened that only one reply misspelled "brake" as effectively its opposite.
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