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Re: [curt] The V0 Dilema for New Climbers and its Effects on the Rest of Us!:
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spikeddem
Feb 9, 2011, 2:34 AM
Views: 9255
Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
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curt wrote: spikeddem wrote: 1904climber wrote: chalk marks are not always there. Well, per me post earlier, it does not matter. Grades are not given based upon the difficulty of correctly reading a sequence. Sometimes figuring out the beta is far harder than merely doing the moves. In those cases, the actual difficulty certainly does involve reading the sequence.
Could you explain to me why this is the case? It suggests that someone flashing a problem should receive a different grade than someone on-sighting a problem. That seems to open up a huge can of worms. I mean, sure you might say like "it on-sights hard" but to make its grade based upon an on-sight?
In reply to: spikeddem wrote: The ideal rating is given with the best beta for the route. The problem is that not everyone uses the "best" beta for the route--whatever that means. A six foot tall climber and a five foot tall climber will likely have quite different sequences that are best for them--and there's absolutely no reason to believe that the difficulty rating should be the same for the two of them. That is actually the best argument against having 16 (or whatever) number of bouldering grades. Curt
Right, and that thought passed through my head as well. The main reason I didn't address that was because we're talking about routes in the gym. In my gym we have problems between V0 and V11, and climbers between 5' flat and 6' 4"+. A foot jib here or there can generally make up for any major height requirements. It isn't common to see routes that change more than one V-grade based upon heights that fall within 2 standards deviations of the average gym climber height.
That being said, I think in the V-system--or any rating system--there is an implied "this is true for 95% of folk." The same people that have issues with ratings cuz of height are probably the same people that have issues with their height in general. I.e., reaching for stuff placed at heights that businesses have decided 95% of people will be able to reach it.
(This post was edited by spikeddem on Feb 9, 2011, 2:36 AM)
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Post edited by spikeddem
() on Feb 9, 2011, 2:36 AM
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