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Re: [curt] The V0 Dilema for New Climbers and its Effects on the Rest of Us!:
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jt512
Feb 10, 2011, 3:14 AM
Views: 9133
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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curt wrote: jt512 wrote: ...The bottom line is that the more fine-grained the difficulty scale, the more information you have about the difficulty, and thus the more useful is the grading scale. This applies whether you are climbing inside or out, though perhaps for somewhat different reasons... That's absolute nonsense.
Well, my statement may have been too broad. There may indeed be a point beyond which making the scale more finely grained only adds noise. What I probably should have said is that if the problems range in difficulty from V0 to V10, then, compared to a 4-point scale, the V-scale provides more information about the difficulty of the problems because it is a more fine-grained scale.
In reply to: You have no more real information about the difficulty of the problems, only more disagreement about the ratings.
But your statement is also too sweeping. Compared with a 4-point scale, with the V-scale, sure you'll have more misclassifications, but only because you have more categories. That doesn't imply that the more fine grained scale isn't more informative. You could reduce the frequency of misclassifications to zero by simply using a 1-pt rating scale, but that would obviously provide no information whatsoever. So, it isn't all about misclassifications.
Define a correct rating as the mean rating provided by some panel of climbers. And for simplicity assume that at some bouldering area, all problems are rated to within ± 2 V-grades of their correct rating, regardless of the actual rating scale used. So if the area uses the V-scale, if a route is rated V4, then its correct rating might be anything from V2 to V6, a range of 5 V-grades. Now, assume that the area uses some 4-point alternative scale in which the category that V4 is in ranges from V3 to V5. Since ratings may be off by up to two V-grades, then routes in this category will include problems from V1 to V7, a range of 7 V-grades, which practically yields no information at all about the route's difficulty.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 11, 2011, 7:25 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by jt512
() on Feb 10, 2011, 3:24 AM
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Post edited by jt512
() on Feb 10, 2011, 3:29 AM
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Post edited by jt512
() on Feb 11, 2011, 7:25 PM
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Post edited by jt512
() on Feb 11, 2011, 7:25 PM
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