Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [Kstenson] clean first time top-rope = ?: Edit Log




jt512


Mar 7, 2011, 4:05 PM

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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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Re: [Kstenson] clean first time top-rope = ?
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Kstenson wrote:
I sincerely doubt that you and Jay can argue that to Top Rope a climb is harder and more tiring than to Lead a climb. That was my fundamental point.

Your fundamental point is fundamentally wrong. Some routes are harder to TR than to lead (and more dangerous as well).

In reply to:
And Jay, I understand that yes those with more experience in Lead climbing will have developed techniques too adjust and be a better judge, but does the fact that Lead climbing requires the benefit of experience far more than Top Roping not aid my point that it is fundamentally harder?

First of all, you've changed your argument. This is what you originally said, and all that you originally said: "Having to lock off on one arm and hold that position while you unclip a quickdraw from your harness, clip it into the bolt and then clip your rope into the draw makes climbing lead far more strenuous and tiring than top roping where you simply climb continuously except for rests."

It is false that lead climbing is "far more strenuous and tiring" than top roping. If you're finding it far more strenuous and tiring, then you're doing something wrong, and you should investigate what that is. Your own words suggest that you're not clipping efficiently, and if you're new to lead climbing and finding it far more strenuous and tiring, then you're probably over gripping or moving inefficiently due to the added stress of leading, as well.

Interestingly, you started out by arguing against a point that was never made. Phang_nga never said that lead climbing a route isn't at least a little harder than TRing it; he only said that "a top rope doesn't physically help you up the route," and therefore that a clean top rope ascent is still a worthy ascent.

In reply to:
I'm simply stating that if you were to Climb the exact same climb via Top Rope and then by Lead, the Lead ascent would be harder.

That is usually, but not always, the case. Because you have to clip the draws, you have to hang on longer at the bolts. If the clipping positions are strenuous, then leading will be more difficult. But often the clipping positions aren't strenuous, and so the added difficulty will be minor, especially if the draws are already up (as they often will be, especially on harder climbs)—most experienced sport climbers don't think there's much glory in hanging draws. And, as others have mentioned, if you have to unclip directionals, then top roping a route can be more strenuous than leading it.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Mar 7, 2011, 4:35 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jt512 () on Mar 7, 2011, 4:05 PM
Post edited by jt512 () on Mar 7, 2011, 4:35 PM


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