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Re: [sticky_fingers] Lowering accident. Serious Injuries:
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jakedatc
Jun 2, 2011, 10:51 PM
Views: 12224
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
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sticky_fingers wrote: redlude97 wrote: sticky_fingers wrote: redlude97 wrote: sticky_fingers wrote: To avoid all the miscommincations, why not come up with new terms right now? Something simple, something easily understood (both interms of sound and definition), something like: "Anchor" - what the climbers yells to the belayer when the climber clips into the anchors. At this point the belayer can do whatever he/she feels like; untie, walk away, etc. (2-syllable) "Take" - what the climber yells to the belayer when the climber wants the belayer to take in all the slack. The climber does not issue another command to the belayer UNTIL the climber is pulled up into the anchor. (1-syllable) "Lower" - what the climber yells to the belayer when the climber wants to be lowered to the ground. (2-syllable) Thoughts? What does a climber yell when they clip in direct to the anchor but are expecting to be lowered? The climber still yells what they want. In this case just "lower". If the climber sees there's a lot of slack in the rope after clipping, the climber can say "Take", then "Lower". What if they are going to rethread before lowering? When the climber yells "Anchor" that's the cue for the belayer to a) give a ton of slack or b) unclip belay device, eat, etc. So by saying "Anchor" the climber should have plenty of slack with which to rethread. Hell, at that point, the climber can rappel.
No, You should not be unclipped from the belay device if you are going to lower. If you are going to lower you need to stay on belay. Rapping from a sport climb is unnecessary 99.9% of the time and we've already gone over the reasons why.
you cannot use the same command to mean "i'm going to rethread then rappel" and "i'm going to rethread then lower"
to be "considerate"
Slack
Take
Lower
Edit: oh yea.. the belayer can eat, piss, whatever when i'm back on the ground. it takes 5 minutes to clean a route. i'm not hanging out at an anchor waiting on them.
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Jun 2, 2011, 10:52 PM)
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Post edited by jakedatc
() on Jun 2, 2011, 10:52 PM
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