lena_chita
Moderator
Oct 31, 2011, 1:50 PM
Views: 15160
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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jt512 wrote: At most sport crags I've climbed at, if you put up the draws, you get to climb the route when you want to. You have to let others climb the route while you're resting, but if you tell them that you want to do your next burn in, say, an hour, then they should honor that. Jay
+1
If you have your draws hanging, but you are not climbing, or actively preparing to climb and getting on the route within 5 minutes, if someone shows up and asks to have a run on your draws, you let them.
But you make it clear what your timeline is.
I have never seen a group of 5 or 6, esp. topropers, climb on someone else's draws and proceed to occupy a route for hours. On their own draws, if they were the first ones to get on the route in the morning -- yes, but not if they were allowed to cut in line on someone else's gear/rope. And if this were the case, and they were doing it on my draws, I would not hesitate to step in and tell them politely but firmly that I was going up next and their rope was coming down. Depending on the situation, I might offer to climb on their rope, so their rope is set up for toprope again after I am done, so they could have another run or two on toprope if I am planning to rest and try again, or switch out their draws for mine, if I was going to leave after that try.
The more common scenario (and no less vexing) is that you let one person get on the route, thinking that a reasonable attempt would take about 30 minutes, approximately the rest time you have in mind, and find out that this person's idea of "one run" on a route involves hanging out at each bolt for 20 minutes, and they feel entitled to spend two hours on the route, regardless of who is waiting...
(This post was edited by lena_chita on Oct 31, 2011, 2:28 PM)
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