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Climbing Information:
Accident and Incident Analysis:
Re: near death fall (45ft):
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guangzhou
Jun 11, 2012, 5:32 AM
Views: 12655
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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I don't know who raps more in one month , but I do know that accidents happen even when precautions are taken. I guess that's why they are called accidents. (I bet my AMGA membership started long before yours did, so let's avoid the "I'm an AMGA Blah Blah Blah." )
Rappeling with clients, or how a guide raps with a clients really depends on the clients, the location, and other factors.
If I were guiding an experienced client at a place like the sea cliffs of Arcadia in Maine, I would most likely not tie knots in the end of my ropes and would most likely give the client a fireman belay. The Same Client and I coming off something on White Horse in New Hampshire and there's a good chance I would tie knots. Rapping off some crack on Glacier Point and I'd make the judgement call on the spot.
An inexperienced client, I would threat differently but most like still not ties knots in the end of my rope at Arcadia because on how much rope is piled in the base.
Me, I avoid rappelling when I can but I still end up on rappel a lot.
Sometime it's coming off multi-pitch routes, sometimes single pitch route, sometimes I might be rap-bolting a new route. Sometimes I descending into canyons to check out new climbing of canyoneering potential. (Hot summers in Asia)
I decide whether or not I need a knot at that time. More often than not, I don't have a knot, but I still use them sometimes. "BARK" Buckle, Anchor, Rap Device, and Knot is what I was taught in the 80s, but I also learned that every situation dictates what you do.
Paying attention is a good first rule to follow. Paying attention is what helps me decide whether or not I need to tie those knots.
No matter how much I pay attention, an accident can happen, maybe someone or something above dislodges a rock that knocks me uncontentious and I slide down my ropes until the knots stop me or not.
I agree that we hear about more and more accidents happening, but more and more people are climbing.
Percentage wise, are accidents up, down, or the same?
Are we hearing about more accidents because of the internet?
Let's face it, the accident above would most likely have gone unnoticed outside of the local cliff 15 to 20 years ago.
Internet forums sure spread news quickly.
So yes, pay attention, that is the best tool on your rack to keep you safe. Every situation dictates what you should or shouldn't do.
(This post was edited by guangzhou on Jun 11, 2012, 5:33 AM)
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Post edited by guangzhou
() on Jun 11, 2012, 5:33 AM
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