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Re: [gunkiemike] Beginning Lead Climbing:
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bearbreeder
Dec 27, 2012, 11:57 PM
Views: 17142
Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
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gunkiemike wrote: BIG difference between experienced leaders "going sporty" on a route and a green newb falling 4 bolts' worth. And I think you know that.
it doesnt matter whether your new or old, in my gym your going for a 20-30 foot whipper in the gym if the belayer is doing their job properly
consider
-last bolt is 6 feet from the top
-even with a somewhat tight belay theres likely at least 3 feet of slack in the system as your belayer is standing slightly offset, and there is a slight loop ... if there isnt youre being short roped
- with 50 feet of rope out, and a fall from the top, assume a 15% rope stretch conservatively ... which is simply the rope doing its job ...
6 foot from the top + 9 feet below the bolt + 8 foot stretch
so with a totally static belay you fall ~23 feet ... but a totally static belay means that youre fighting being pulled up which will slam your climber into the wall ... this would be belayer incompetence
even a climber of equivalent weight will naturally get pulled up a few feet, yr now at ~30 feet ... and one a bit lighter can easily fly up a body length or more ... not to mention at the top youll wannt more than minimal slack if you need to make any big dynamic moves
in short ANY competent belayer will give you a catch from the top bolt that will result in a 20-30 foot fall on a slightly overhanging low friction route ...
if your not willing to take that kind of fall at the top of a 50 foot wall, you shouldnt be leading whether yr a newbie or not
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Dec 28, 2012, 12:02 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by bearbreeder
() on Dec 27, 2012, 11:58 PM
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Post edited by bearbreeder
() on Dec 28, 2012, 12:02 AM
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