Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [budman] Rapelling Fall. Ralph Stover : Edit Log




PAbeekeeper


Apr 16, 2015, 6:36 PM

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Registered: Mar 3, 2015
Posts: 18

Re: [budman] Rapelling Fall. Ralph Stover
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budman wrote:
Wow! You whine about the quality of the rock and then comment on the placements as if they are the same in all respects. There is good rock there with good placements. And if one really needs to weight each piece to prove it is actually a good placement you will by nature limit your ability to lead efficiently. After climbing and placing gear for a while one gains confidence in how good a placement really is. Aid climbing really helps in this respect as you are weighting many pieces to get to the end result and I've done enough to take care of myself while soloing walls.

As much as Stover is a pile compared to many places it does have some good climbs and a bit of history. Enough said, Stover will always hold something special for me and the time I spent there with friends. It's a cool place so climb with respect

Sigh. Budman, you've been there, you know much of the rock is rotten and fractured. You also know that trad placements go into cracks in the rock, and that at Stover the cracks there are the result of the fissures in the rock fracturing in freeze/thaw cycles due to water ingress. You also know that Shale is slicker than snot.

Simply, what passes for a "good placement" elsewhere often does not work at Stover; it'll track out, fracture the rock, or a combination of both. As I've said, I've spent time actually testing this at Stover. Hell, I probably still have pics, video, and loading charts for some of it squirreled around somewhere.

Anyway, I've much enjoyed the time I've spent at Stover, but DWG is only 20 minutes further for me and the climbing there is much more enjoyable. Frankly I see Stover's suckage as a good thing, as it makes climbing elsewhere so much nicer.



EDIT: Also, Budman, let's not lose sight of the fact that we're having this discussion because someone decked at Stover, likely while leading Trad and possibly with an outrageously crazy anchor. While I am 100% in favor of doing aid while on TR at Stover to learn the art of placing gear, I'm also 100% certain that learning to lead Trad there is a patently bad idea.


(This post was edited by PAbeekeeper on Apr 16, 2015, 7:18 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 16, 2015, 7:10 PM
Post edited by PAbeekeeper () on Apr 16, 2015, 7:18 PM


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