Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [catbird_seat] Another cam lobe retraction question: Edit Log


Nov 25, 2006, 11:11 AM

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Registered: Jul 13, 2004
Posts: 92

Re: [catbird_seat] Another cam lobe retraction question
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catbird_seat wrote:
Spring tension is irrelevant to the discussion about whether cams can be pushed. In the double axle cam, the lobes "flag" back from each axle. In the single axle cam, if you push one lobe (by contact with the side of the crack) the spring acts on the other lobe to push it the opposite direction. This does not happen in a double axle cam.

If you don't believe me, then you should go experiment with each type of cam yourself and make up your own mind.

You are correct about the movement of the cams. And you are right, again, it is not the springs.

You said.
"This advantage is that because the springs act between each lobe and the axle base, rather than one lobe against the other, there is a greater tendency for the lobes to remain at equal retraction, even though one may be careless in placement by "pushing" the cam into the crack, rather than "placing" it. "

The "advantage" you speak of is in the cam stops, not springs. However be careful of the flexible shaft. This can bend when pushed and allow even the double axle cams get out of "position"(for the lack of a better word).

Pushing a SLCD into a crack is not the right thing to do, placing it is. But everybody does it sometimes, me included.


edit for typo

(This post was edited by chriss on Nov 26, 2006, 9:15 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by chriss () on Nov 26, 2006, 9:15 AM

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