Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice: Re: [kixx] Winter Mt Washington: Edit Log


Jan 11, 2007, 7:10 AM

Views: 771

Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 8150

Re: [kixx] Winter Mt Washington
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

kixx wrote:
Mike, It's great that you are asking these questions and doing your research. I've seen and heard of all sorts of things happening to clients who blindly followed guides into the mountains. Get a copy of Accidents In North American Mountaineering for 2006, 2005, 2004 as far back as you care to go. They are available for $9 each on Amazon and carefully explain exactly what has gone wrong and how it could have been avoided. You'll be able to see these situations before they arise.

As for guides on Mt. Washington they are very informative, helpful, and not at all after your cash. However they do have to cater to the group dynamic of the trip, and you may be frustrated by how weak and mentally uprepared your fellow clients are. The guide must look after them and it can stifle your personal experience.

I've run into many guided parties on all routes on the Presidential Range and they always frustrate me with their incompetence. It seems to me most clients simply go into the mountains without learning anything about them and cause major problems for everyone else.

Ever since I began I chose to go without a guide and it has been very rewarding. If you can find someone with some knowledge to go with it would be much better in a smaller two or three person team. Save your guide money for more technical instruction like crevasse rescue, beginner ice climbing, and such.

I'm solo in the area quite often and would be willing to go with you if you like. Drop me line if there is anything else you'd like to know about the area.


I agree with this. I grew up in the Washington area and have climbed it many times (first time was in winter, actually). It is doable without a guide, but I definately would find experienced partners if you go this route and definately do not go up there alone. Washington is one of those mountains that doesn't look impressive at all, but it can be extremely brutal and dangerous. People die every year on it. Bring gear for overnight conditions: bivy sack, etc.

Be in good hiking shape. This part is hard since personal fitness is pretty much one big variable. Getting to the to is a bonus, and having a view is a bigger bonus. The first two time I tried Washingon we turned around due to conditions. It can be perfect in the notch and crazy on the mountain, as was stated above.

(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on Jan 11, 2007, 7:12 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by wanderlustmd () on Jan 11, 2007, 7:12 AM

Search for (options)

Log In:

Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?