Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [holdplease2] Cheater stick design?: Edit Log




iamthewallress


Feb 8, 2007, 6:28 PM

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Registered: Jan 1, 2003
Posts: 2463

Re: [holdplease2] Cheater stick design?
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fwiw, I don't have any feelings of sadness, guilt, or self-doubt with respect to routes on which I've stick clipped. I can't erase the rest of my effort or the fun that I had because of a few moments spent groveling in 'poor' style.

I simply refuse prostrate myself to others who are ready to point out that I didn't really do a 7 day climb if 10 seconds of stick clipping was involved before they even ask if I enjoyed the climb. Sadly, there are people who seem almost compulsive about doing this as soon as they ask you what route you climbed. Then again, I'm not really trying to make "claims", and am operating from the point of view of someone whose record is unimpressive, thus the details of how badass I am or am not should not be terribly interesting to anyone including myself.

I wouldn't want bring an iron/head rack along for a day trip up a route that's generally known to be 100% fixed, but bringing something (i.e. a stick clip) to deal with missing gear is, IMO, responsible. Maybe if you're hoping to publish your results, you'll be better served to leave it at home.

If you need to bail, having a stick clip can be a god send for getting yourself pulled into the wall.

I'm probably not saying anything new here...that's why you asked about the stick clip.

I tend to use a sturdy tent pole with a fifi (mine is BD) taped onto the end and some sort of climbable nylon coming off of the hook. Lately, I've been limiting myself to one long peice of tent pole (i.e. no shock cord) as a reach equalizer, but my situations have been bailable.

I did manage the largest cheater rig of a tent pole I've ever seen on a recent bolt replacement effort. It wouldn't have worked if the rock was verticle or beyond as tent poles are pretty flexible. Rapping my ladders around the pole and giving it some tension helped me get the hook into the distant bolts.


(This post was edited by iamthewallress on Feb 8, 2007, 6:37 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by iamthewallress () on Feb 8, 2007, 6:31 PM
Post edited by iamthewallress () on Feb 8, 2007, 6:34 PM
Post edited by iamthewallress () on Feb 8, 2007, 6:37 PM


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