Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [iamthewallress] Cheater stick design?: Edit Log


Feb 10, 2007, 4:00 PM

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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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Re: [iamthewallress] Cheater stick design?
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iamthewallress wrote:
I would forget about the cheat stick on the Nose as there is very little fixed gear to use it on (and much of the fixed gear is not mandatory).

Go with burly cord and tie big fat knots in the end.

I've climbed up to the stovelegs (just shy of dolt tower) a couple of times. We have made it through those pitches without a stick clip, but a stick clip would be quicker. There are numerous places (especially the pitches up to sickle) where you either have to do tricky (slow for me) aid, or somewhat burly free moves (sometimes off of somewhat manky fixed junk). For trying to climb the whole route, stick clipping and yarding up would save us time and endurance vs doing it all in "good style". Its not that I'm worried about mandatory aid--I just figure if I have somthing that is light and quick/easy enough to use, if I use it, say just a dozen times on the whole route, to skip either a hard free move or an akward aid move, I'm figuring it will be worth it. Even on a bolt ladder, if I could skip every other bolt (especially if the bolts are close together), it seems like I could save time (seconds add up). I try to plan as if things will go slower than I expect. If I just get up the thing once, I can always come back again.

But I thought the first thing to do was to build a stick clip and try it out (maybe on those pitches leading up to sickle).

Is the amount of fixed gear on the initial pitches that much of an exception compared to the rest of the Nose?

And if I go to the trouble to make something, I would like to be able to use in other places (assuming it doesn't collapse on me and end up as litter at the bottom...)

Oh, and thanks for all the replies/suggestions.

(This post was edited by sspssp on Feb 10, 2007, 4:11 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by sspssp () on Feb 10, 2007, 4:06 PM
Post edited by sspssp () on Feb 10, 2007, 4:11 PM

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