Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [iamthewallress] Cheater stick design?: Edit Log




sspssp


Feb 11, 2007, 2:16 PM

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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731

Re: [iamthewallress] Cheater stick design?
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iamthewallress wrote:
If you're an efficient aid climber, stick clipping is often slower than making the placements, even fiddlely ones, if they are there to be made, especially on something like a bolt ladder.

If your partner is willing to fix and fire from Sickle, the first 4 pitches are, IMO, the trickiest to aid and have the slickest free. There are often great wads of fixed cordage on p2 & P4 that you can yard your way along where some of the those who came before found the climbing inconveniently tricky.

The skipping bolts was an off the head comment. Later sitting on the couch, I was thinking that isn't going to save any time.

I lead P4 a couple of weeks ago (during the dry spell). I was expecting great wads of cordage, but the first pendulumn on the pitch was clean (P2 wasalso clean). Since I had never needed hooks before on these pitches, I didn't have a bat hook for the drilled hole (that is between the pin and the fixed stopper/smashy) and I didn't relish the disappearing stem off the manky pin to free climb up to the pendy point.

I was thinking, if I just had a stick clip...


(This post was edited by sspssp on Feb 11, 2007, 2:17 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sspssp () on Feb 11, 2007, 2:17 PM


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