Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [dr_feelgood] Itty Bitty Brass Nuts: Edit Log

Partner euroford

Feb 19, 2007, 1:53 PM

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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913

Re: [dr_feelgood] Itty Bitty Brass Nuts
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last july i pretty much earned my PHD in itty bitty brass nutting on the C3 pitches of the dunn/westbay. i would have trouble imagining a pitch with more sustained fiddly nutwork than i found on that thing.

for what its worth, RP's and HB offsets are far and away the best things going for this kind of work. although quite seriously frightening even the smallest sizes are insanely effective.

the problem is, they are a bit hard to come by, and can cost an arm and a leg. i've done best with a sustained effort on ebay and through the message boards. if i see them in a store, i just buy them whether i need them or not!

i have two sets of each, and in my case even that was not enough. i supplimented the rack with a set of BD's bronze micro's and several of the 1-3 bd stoppers. the micro's are great when you find the right places, and the small stoppers will get the job done sometimes. i use these whenever i can to conserve my rack of rp's and hb's, becouse sometimes you'll need one of these and nothing else will work.

having a set of trango ballnutz and some leeper camhooks are also essential for getting you past some of the parallel spots. the ballnutz are also essential for when the crack might get even too shallow for a camhook to work.

i almost always backclean the smallest rp's and hb's. fact of the matter is, they arn't likely to stop a fall and then you'll just be left with one less tool on your rack and a broken piece of gear that will need to be extracted (hopefully!) before you can go back up.

(This post was edited by euroford on Feb 19, 2007, 1:54 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by euroford () on Feb 19, 2007, 1:53 PM
Post edited by euroford () on Feb 19, 2007, 1:54 PM

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