Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [tallnik] Yates adjustable daisies w/ screamers: Edit Log


Mar 31, 2007, 3:10 PM

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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250

Re: [tallnik] Yates adjustable daisies w/ screamers
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the kong adjustable fifi works just as you question... the thing is, when yarding on an "adjustable" piece, it generates a not insubstantial amount of friction on the material you are pulling through the piece (the kong fifi, in this case). On a long wall, a prudent user of this piece of gear will carry a length of accessory cord to replace the cord you have begun the climb with, just in case it becomes so worn that it causes you to wonder. I have not climbed more than 16 pitches with the same cord, though some life remained it was not lively enough to climb another route entirely.

Doing something similar with a tool which requires a piece of webbing might also require that you haul the sewing machine up the wall with you, or at least a good stitching kit. The "adjustable" daisies that I have seen require one to pull a piece of flat webbing through a buckle which has some kind of diamond knurl machined into the face of it (think load compression straps of the type one might use to tie down the kayak). The webbing being pulled over a 180degree change of direction, in conjunction with the cam-buckle, generates a significant amount of wear which will have to be dealt with at some point.

I prefer to use a piece which is easily field maintainable, especially since it is less than a third the cost. A leader would only need only one adjustable fifi, and one standard fifi, as once the piece you are standing on is at waist height a switch can be made, preparing the adjustable fifi to be placed on the next piece you will be yarding on.

I have found the adjustable fifi handy for initial testing of a piece, as well as an invaluable tool to weight hooks with, especially when the hook placement is a good ways to one side. It will allow oneself to step lower to bounce a tad on a questionable piece when the stirrups are too high to step into, or essentially lower themselves onto a hook as gently as can be.

There has been at least one incident involving a worn "adjustable" daisy that broke, resulting in a broken leg IIRC. (Un)fortunately this person no longer posts to this board, but you might ask PTPP what he thinks of them over on that supertaco board. However, be prepared to filter through someone's "better way" and find a way that works for you.

edited to correct the response credit to tallnik

(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Mar 31, 2007, 3:12 PM)

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Post edited by stymingersfink () on Mar 31, 2007, 3:12 PM

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