Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [cosmin] To bolt or.... not?: Edit Log




Partner euroford


Apr 9, 2007, 3:32 AM

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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913

Re: [cosmin] To bolt or.... not?
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i see there being several distinctions.

if you've made an FA of an unclimbed peak, you are in essence establishing the descent route as well. i see this should be done in a sensable logical fashion using the best case permanent anchors. probobly bolts. when doing so the rap route is installed keeping in mind not just your passage, but those of future users as well.

if you have made an FA of a previously climbed peak, you should be using the previously established descent route. unless your a 'local' who knows the peak and can take up the flag of maintance, establishing a new descent route using permanent anchors is not your place. if you are rapping the established rap route, and you can do some needed replacement of bad anchors, perhaps that is called for. perhaps not.

if your just bailing off, by no means should you be putting holes in things.


at any rate, if your going to install a permanent rap route off of a peak, it needs to be the best one. no doubt many poeple have wished well and really fked shit up with drills.


(This post was edited by euroford on Apr 9, 2007, 3:32 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by euroford () on Apr 9, 2007, 3:32 AM


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