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j_ung
Jul 16, 2007, 3:00 PM
Views: 13655
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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Somewhere deep in this thread user, curator, made mention of fake bolts glued onto Easily Flakey, one of the most prominent and well-traveled moderate routes in the New River Gorge. For those who were wondering or who may have heard rumors, yes, it is true.
Two Fayetteville climbers glued fake hangers onto the route as a practical joke aimed at one individual known for his vocal stance against retrobolting, among other things. The hangers were attached with glue that was strong enough to hold the hangers, a draw and a rope, but not body weight.
Other climbers removed the fake bolts quickly and no injuries to people or damage to the rock resulted. Park police began an investigation almost immediately.
The following is the text of a letter to all of us from Head Ranger Gary Hartley.
In reply to: July 13, 2007 An Open Letter to the Climbing Community at New River Gorge National River Earlier this week it was reported to the park that six fake bolted hangers were glued to the cliff face near the “Easily Flakey” route at Bridge Buttress. Once discovered, the hangers were removed and an investigation was immediately initiated. Through the cooperation of the local climbing community, the individuals responsible for this act have come forward and provided detailed statements. We have been assured by these individuals that the fake hangers placed on the cliff have been removed and that this was an isolated incident. Park rangers will be conducting the follow-up investigation and I expect federal charges to be filed against the individuals involved. While this incident is under further investigation, I have asked the Superintendent to suspend the blanket permit for bolt replacement. As of this date no bolts may be placed on any rock surface unless specific authorization is received from the National Park Service. This authorization will only be granted on a case by case basis involving identified hazards and emergency situations. This suspension shall remain in effect until further notice. Climbers should be aware that the National Park Service does not inspect or maintain fixed protection at the New River Gorge National River. All climbers should inspect any fixed protection devices upon which they will be depending. Any fixed protection that appears to be faulty should be flagged and reported to park headquarters as soon as possible. The National Park Service considers visitor safety a priority and we must err on the side of caution. Your cooperation in providing a safe climbing environment is greatly appreciated. If you have any questions or concerns regarding this incident, please do not hesitate to contact me at 304-465-0508 ext. 218 Sincerely, Gary Hartley, Chief Ranger New River Gorge National River Gauley River National Recreation Area Bluestone National Scenic River
And the following is my own opinion on the subject.
As you can see in the above letter, the actions of a couple individuals can affect access for the rest of us, even in an area where the relationship between climbers and land managers is long and strong. Thankfully, in this case all indications are that the affect will be temporary and limited. However, before those responsible for the glued-on bolts turned themselves in, the NPS was on the verge of shutting down all climbing in the Park until every route with fixed gear had been inspected. My information, which comes directly from an authoritative Park source, is that they were within a couple days of making this happen. It really was that close.
One of the things I've always loved about climbing at the New is the overall maturity level of the climbing community. This incident shocked me and scared me and let me know, in no uncertain terms, that we are not invulnerable to misconduct, be it malicious or, as in this case, simply an absurd lapse of judgment.
I haven't had my head in the sand, however. I know nothing is perfect, and if I can find fault with the climbing community of the NRG, myself included, it is the existence of an active rumor mill. With that in mind, I just want to thank Gary and the rest of the Park staff for taking the time to issue an official statement so that many of the facts are now established as such.
I urge every climber in every area around the world to think about the consequences of your actions. Whether you intend to bolt, chop bolts, chip holds, glue loose flakes, spread rumors without the benefit of first-hand knowledge or even just use chalk, what you are doing may affect others. For many, climbing is about freedom and personal challenge. But every day, whether we like it or not, there are more and more of us out there. There's only one way to avoid mistakes like what happened here, and that's to control emotional responses and to speak respectfully with others when conflicts arise. To do otherwise has immense potential to harm all of us, no matter what stance we take, no matter the issue.
Thanks for listening,
Jay Young
Fayetteville resident and climber
EDIT: to fix link.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jul 18, 2007, 8:04 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by j_ung
() on Jul 18, 2007, 8:04 PM
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