Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [skinner] TCU vs Flex Cam: Edit Log


Aug 2, 2007, 12:12 AM

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Registered: Feb 14, 2006
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Re: [skinner] TCU vs Flex Cam
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skinner wrote:
bigfatrock wrote:
skinner wrote:
8flood8 wrote:
besides the obvious of 4cu vs 3cu, i think that i would feel more comfortable placing a flex cam in a horizontal placement because of the floppy stem.

I agree

That is one thing I was thinking about. I've seen pictures of the Metolius cams placed in horizontal positions and it looks really stressed. Thanks for the replies. I will be sure to ask plenty of more questions to whomever I end up getting as a guide. It will most likely be Texas Mountaineers.

Stressed, describes it fairly accurately. I love my Metolius cams, love the way the place, and hold, but.. I have a few that were weighted pretty heavily while in horizontal placements, the cable ended up rather deformed. Even after straightening them, they are just never the same, the smooth action is gone I've been really impressed with the BD C3's for both vertical and horizontal placements. Personally I think you need a mix of cams. My big cams are a mix of BD Camalots and Trangos Max Cams (which btw, there is a recall on the #1)

Actually, In the info provided with the products, a single stem cam (bd .75&2 C4) has no strength-wise advantage over a double stem cam (Metolius 00 TCU). They information says that they BOTH loose about 2KN of holding power when loaded in a horizontal crack with the stem over the edge. This is independent of other advantages or disadvantages.

That being settled, I would probably choose a TCU for smaller pieces and a Flexcam for larger pieces, but I'm not very familiar with Flexcams. I trust they're similar to BD C4's

(This post was edited by sky7high on Aug 2, 2007, 1:17 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by sky7high () on Aug 2, 2007, 1:17 PM

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