Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [skinner] TCU vs Flex Cam: Edit Log




sky7high


Aug 2, 2007, 1:39 PM

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Registered: Feb 14, 2006
Posts: 478

Re: [skinner] TCU vs Flex Cam
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skinner wrote:
sky7high wrote:
Actually, In the info provided with the products, a single stem cam (bd .75&2 C4) has no strength-wise advantage over a double stem cam (Metolius 00 TCU). They information says that they BOTH loose about 2KN of holding power when loaded in a horizontal crack with the stem over the edge. This is independent of other advantages or disadvantages.

That being settled, I would probably choose a TCU for smaller pieces and a Flexcam for larger pieces, but I'm not very familiar with Flexcams. I trust they're similar to BD C4's

That being settled?

If you actually read my post.. you'd see that I never mentioned anything about a "strength" or "holding power" difference, but was in fact referring to the way in which Metolius cables tend to "ended up rather deformed"
when "weighted pretty heavily while in horizontal placements.", and the subsequent effect on the cams action.

If YOU actually READ my post, you'll find out I never said anything about you being wrong. I'm pretty familiar with metolius TCU's and I know exactly what you're talking about. Same thing happens to every single wired piece I've ever seen. (think stoppers and hexes, not just cams). I just wanted to clear that out so other people out there wouldn't get confused thinking there was a difference in strength.
(just trying to help bigfatrock out)
skinner wrote:
You also might want to read your own post..
sky7high wrote:
This is independent of other advantages or disadvantages.
..such as shielded vs. unshielded cables being weighted over the sharp edge of a horizontal placement.
guess what... shielded cables also get deformed. Really. If the manufacturer says the holding strength is 2kn weaker, I think we should believe them. (Of course, if you have actually tested a significant number of TCU's vs. Flexcams and found that TCU's are weaker, I apologize)
skinner wrote:
sky7high wrote:
That being settled,..

sky7high wrote:
but I'm not very familiar with Flexcams. I trust they're similar to BD C4's

Yes, they are similar.. in that they are both cams.
I've seen pics of the stems, they look pretty similar to me. If this is not so, please point me in the right direction. Thank you
skinner wrote:
BTW. It's not necessary to underline your entire post when you *think* you have a point to make.
The only reason my post was underlined, was because YOU forgot to put an at the end of your link, fixed that now.


(This post was edited by sky7high on Aug 2, 2007, 1:40 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sky7high () on Aug 2, 2007, 1:40 PM


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