Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [crotch] Pushing it for Trad...dangerous?: Edit Log




iamthewallress


Aug 21, 2007, 12:53 AM

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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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Re: [crotch] Pushing it for Trad...dangerous?
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crotch wrote:
iamthewallress wrote:
crotch wrote:
There's a diff. between failing under bodyweight and failing under the force of a lead fall.

Of course.

I was responding, largely to this:

In reply to:
sitting here i am almost betting that you are going to try and point out the difference between "good" and "good looking" placements, but please tell me how you can discern the two without weighting it.

Weighting gear tends to imply hanging on it or using it for aid purposes.

My bad. I thought you were commenting on the plausibility of the 1 in 20 statement.

To some degree I am...I still think 1 in 20 visually 'good' placements in good rock will fail in a reasonable leader fall only if someone is clueless or is very liberal with what they call good.

I'd be interested to see what % of injuries due to lead falls were about gear failing though. I'd bet it's less than a third.


(This post was edited by iamthewallress on Aug 21, 2007, 12:55 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by iamthewallress () on Aug 21, 2007, 12:55 AM


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