Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [rockprodigy] What is traditional free climbing?: Edit Log


Sep 26, 2007, 12:46 PM

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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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Re: [rockprodigy] What is traditional free climbing?
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Dare I try to tie this all together?

(apologies for those who know this history)

TRADITION has changed. originally, "gentlemen" would hire guides, who tied in their clients, and climbed in a style we would now call "4th class". (not to imply early climbers were not bold, or did not do climbs which were difficult)

in europe, and eventually in the USA, intermediate protection came into being, in the early 1900s Germany using jammed knots. later, in Great Britain, chockstones, (real stones), were used and tied off. Germany soon had cemented-in ring bolts (RINGEN), used as both belays, and intermediate protection points, always placed from free stances on lead.

as an aside, in germany, the use of a shoulder stand was not considered "aid". "two men are one attacking unit"-fritz weissner

USA pitoncraft may well have started in 1931, on the north ridge of grand teton.

intermediate protection, at this point, was considered controversial, and the ethic was "the leader does not fall". (NOT "must not fall").

during WW2, nylon ropes were invented, and the real possibility of catching a leader fall became evident. pitoncraft spread quickly, leading to destruction of the rock, and the subsequent change to chocks (etc) for protection.

so the definition of TRAD really has changed. but the ETHIC contains the following:

1) ground up
2) no pre-inspection from a rappel rope or top rope
3) no pre-placed protection
4) all protection placed on lead

in addition, the ETHIC of traditional FREE climbing contains the following:

1)no top rope inspection of holds or gear placement
2)no weighting the rope, you must then lower to the ground and pull the gear and try again, or its not "free".
3) no retro-placement of fixed gear, except to replace broken or otherwise inferior quality gear.
4)all protection placed free on lead, UNLESS freeing an old aid line with fixed protection.

now, dont get me wrong. i LIKE sport climbing, and i have had a blast sieging. but bad style is different from good style.

i'm sure others will add to my lists. have at it!

(This post was edited by onceahardman on Sep 26, 2007, 1:27 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by onceahardman () on Sep 26, 2007, 1:27 PM

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